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PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 10:19 am 
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To be honest if I had a demo unit like erail I would of used that PSU. The reason I went with another PSU is because I did not have an available PSU at the time to use. I built 2 units and am most happy with the PSU I used in the 2nd unit. Not certain if you saw the write up I did on the 2nd unit or not but it goes into quite abit of detail on how I built the unit.

http://www.mediasmartserver.net/2010/10 ... enclosure/

As for the PSU in your existing Sans Digital Enclosure I really do not have much of an opinion for but for what it is they get like $75 for it. I know I bought one thinking I would install it but decided to leave it in the box as a spare for my other Sans Digital and Rosewill enclosures and opted to buy another PSU one that has a fan to provide cooling and then I added an additional 60mm fan in the front to inject air to help keep the PSU even cooler.

While everyone thinks about saving electricity and thats a good idea when possible the thought process I have first and foremost is keeping things cool so that I do not run the risk of component failure. Then there is the noise level and attempting to balance energy consumption, cooling efficiency and noise sometimes can be abit tricky.

As for the LED's I do have a schematic on the Sans Digital PM's and the LED's they use thanks for Stanley providing it to me at the time when I was planning on building a 30 bay enclosure and because I had an interest in getting the LED's functional on the MSS PM. Time is often my greatest enemy and I tend to take on my projects then I can often complete. I should one day like to get back to figuring out the LED's on the PM so they are functional for installed drives and activity as is the case with the Sans Digital Units only I would like to use both LED Boards in the MSS. Problem is I have yet to spend the time to figure out the LED's in the MSS or how they actually function.

The one thing about the LED's on the MSS is that if they are blinking away they could prove to be a major eye distraction because of the size of the light bars but this I will not know unless I get them functional.

It's been quite some time since I have looked at the MSS PortMultiplier project. I tell you one thing I have found them to be useful. I actually moved one and have it connected to a client and use it as a docking station to work on drives. Also the 2 port eSATA Card which comes with the Sans Digital enclosures came in handy because it occurred to me that if I have issues with one or more drives say in a PM on my server I can just move the entire enclosure to the client and work on the drives without having to remove them. Then of course I still have a docking station but I like the fact the MSS PM does a good job keeping things cool while I work on them.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 11:12 am 
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will a switch like this work:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2049717

A simple SPST Push button switch with on/off capability--perfect for switching the power supply to a circuit. Has a rating of 3 amps at 250VAC. Requires a 1/2" mounting hole.


I want to keep from changing the outer casing as much as possible


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 11:52 am 
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Yes it will work because its contacts are not momentary. The switch I used is slightly larger than the USB opening in the enclosure which is why I chose it because I did not want to modify the enclosure anymore than I had too. The switch I used is abit larger then yours but you may have to drill a hole into the enclosure to mount it where as mine I just removed a very small amount of material around the USB Area and the switch then fit perfectly.

Here is a pic and then you decide if its right for you or not.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 11:54 am 
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Sorry I forgot the post the switch which you can get from Radio Shack: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2062521

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 09, 2011 10:38 am 
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My project just hit a snag. While addimng an removing drives to line up backplane, the bottom satan plastic connector fell off. I can superglue it back on but....


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 09, 2011 1:43 pm 
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When did that come from? If it's the motherboard don't worry about it and there was nothing like that on the backplane.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 09, 2011 2:49 pm 
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What I did was I got some hard drives casings from work an loaded them into the spare caddies I have. I then places them into the demo mss to line up the sans digital backplane. I had to connect the back plane a few times to drill. I was really gental with it but I think it might have been damaged before the project started.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 09, 2011 3:26 pm 
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WOW you made a BOOBOO there ](*,)

I just looked at the same backplane you have in your possession and a couple others trying to determine their actual construction. Gluing the connector back together may not work because not many adhesives work with a wide range of plastics so you could make a bigger mess then you have now. The actually connector looks like it was made using an insert molding process where the plastic is molded around the metal connectors. Without seeing your connector close up its hard to determine if the terminals can be slid back in and stay in place. So it appears those terminals were actually what was holding the connector housing in place. There are two tabs behind the connector at first look I thought they may snap into the holes to hold them in place but after close examination they appear to be there for alignment purposes only and do not seem to provide any support. I also pulled out a spare backplane I have for anotherr ProLiant Server and have come to the same conclusion.

Having said all this does not mean I am correct in my assumptions with acception to the glue which does not work with all types of plastics.

What I would recommend you do is contact the good folks at Sans Digital and explain what happend and ask if they can repair the broken connector for you. In the mean time you can also purchase a new backplane board for $63 + S&H from the link below. The sale will be made from Storage4Mac but will ship from Sans Digital.

http://www.storage4mac.com/cfpomupba1.html

Good Luck and please let me know what you plan on doing...

I see you posted some additional pictures while I was writting this so I will take a close look at them. Using the mounting brackets from your original enclosure looks like a good idea. I like it and it appears you will have plenty of room for fans too.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 09, 2011 3:29 pm 
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I see there are metal tabs comming off the backplane. Are the pins in the plastic housing still in there and if so then my assumptions were wrong. If I see this correctly and the pins are still in the connector maybe it might be possible to screw the connector to the board. Can you take a picture of the other side of the broken connector...

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 09, 2011 11:02 pm 
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Ok here are some more pictures, hope these help. the pins on the backplane look to not damaged at all. Looks to have cleanly slide off.

Erail,

When I hook up the power switch do i have to open power supply or can I bite off the Connector that hooks to mother board for this also? Im assuming that the mother board sends a signal to power supply to shut down. I just need to fins these wires and reroute them. is this correct? After fix my backplane powers my last step. Oh yeah what size are the original fans in the MSS? I dont have much experiance with fans or Cooling. I want something that will cool the unit and be quiet. I never had an issue with my EX475 fan noise when I had it, the ex495 is much much better though (Too me).


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 12:08 am 
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I wonder if you can drill and tap the ends and reattach the connector to the backplane as I do not see any conductive surfaces in that area. I also wonder if the pins on the PCB snap into place on the actual connector. Pictures are great but I have to admit having it in hand is better but resolving the issue may or may not be a simple task. If the connector actually locks into the pins you may be able to get a repacement from Sans Digital or you may be able to press the connector back on which is something I would attempt to do but take care not to damage the PCB and again I would make an attempt to screw that sucker on both ends. Of course I would also be ordering a replacement board to bail myself out of the problem all the while hoping to get the original backplane functional again.

On a side note getting the backplane to line up is abit tricky with the bottom the hardest to get but then again I started with the bottom and worked my way up installing 4 drives in MSS Trays to get the alignment right.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 5:08 am 
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The fans are 80mm. HP use Silicon Mounts to mount the fans to the back of the enclosure. The actual fans you use will be determined by the available space between the backplane and enclosure. It appears you will have plenty of room to mount the fans.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 5:38 am 
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It looks like you have plenty of room. I used 80mm by 15mm originally but changed them to 80mm by 25mm and still had room and they keep the enclosure at the same temp as a normal MSS. I used silicon mounts as well to keep the noise down.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 13, 2011 9:52 pm 
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Ok Im getting closer and closer to getting my backplane fixed. I also just got this: (See Pic). I jest need to get my switch and figure out how to make it turn on and off my Enclosure. Erail and Comp1962 thanks for your help so far. Erail if you have any suggestions Id appreciate your help I think it might be green and black???


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 13, 2011 10:12 pm 
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Yes, it is the green wire that you can tap off to go to one side of the switch and a ground (black) wire to the other side of the switch and when you turn on the switch it will start up the power supply.

Edit: I used a smaller more flexible wire to tap off the leads and go back to the switch. This way the drives and fans only turn on when the switch is in the on position. The LEDs will always be on when the power is plugged in because I think they use the standby power. You might be able to figure out how to turn them off with the switch but I didn't bother.

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